Story & Photo By: Helen Ong ~ a self-confessed foodie who loves to hunt down the best of Penang
PENANG has many famous dishes to offer, but assam laksa (otherwise known as Penang laksa) is arguably the best known of all.
In Penang, this dish, because of its acidity, tends to make its first appearance after breakfast, and stays around for the lunch crowd, generally peaking at around tea-time when it is at its most popular. Here, everyone loves this pork-free dish, so you can find it at practically every corner.
Slurp it down standing up in the most basic surroundings, tuck into it in a kopi tiam, or order it in the most luxurious, air-conditioned hotel coffeehouse or upmarket restaurant where a helping can set you back anything from RM20 to RM40.
Balik Pulau and Air Itam are famous for the laksa, in a region already full of good laksa stalls, and Kim, who took over the stall on Main Road from the elderly couple who retired after running it for over three decades, is one where many people head for all the time.
The market next door also has a stall equally famous.
The other well-known places are in Lorong Selamat, Swatow Lane and Penang Road, next to the famous Chendol stall, which also has a branch in Anson Road, and Ah Sean’s at the corner of Jalan Krian and Macalister Road.
Mak Cik Putih, 60, for example, has been running her stall selling homemade “Tanjung Bungah Laksa” in Shamrock Bay, on the coast road to Batu Ferringhi, every weekend for the past 20 years.
People from all over Malaysia have pulled up to eat at her little makeshift stall, sometimes taking 10 or 20 packs home with them. She charges just RM1.70 for a bowl.
Burmese Maung Gyi’s hearty version of this local favourite is available from the Swee Kong corner coffeeshop, Jalan Moulmein, opposite the Pulau Tikus Police Station in the afternoons, with its discernible pieces of fish.
He also has a regular spot at the Tanjung Bungah Market Pasar Malam, which is held every Tuesday evening, where he dispenses mainly takeaway laksa with speed and a cheerful smile.
In recent years, many of these stalls have added a “lemak” version to their menu, but to many, Penang laksa is first and foremost the original assam laksa.
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